********************** Prop Gap Sealing ********************** Gang: Question raised off line regarding the idea of sealing the gap between the prop spinner and the cowling. Seems I've seen some people do this with sticky-backed foam strips, or circles cut out of sticky-backed foam sheets. Does anyone have any comments, experience, or ideas? Ron Levy Cheetah N9764U -------- Subj: Re: Gap Sealing the Prop Spinner Date: 98-03-31 14:37:14 EST From: TIGERCLARK To: RBLevy Hey Ron: I used that foam type pipe insulation stuff. I cut it into 2 pieces (Upper and Lower) Trimmed it to fit. Put all purpose glue (No not Elmer's but the yellow stuff.) Note that it can be a little too big because the rotation of the spinner will automatically do some of the trimming for you Results: Yes I did notice a little bit cooler running engine and that's all. Some say that it increases speed, but I didn't see any difference in speed. And anyway...everybody else has it and I want it too. Have fun :-) Clark Humman Tiger N74226 -------- Subj: Re: Gap Sealing the Prop Spinner Date: 98-03-31 19:45:39 EST From: Wayne Welch To: Ron B. Levy Ron, I just installed a gap seal between my spinner & cowling using foam pipe insulation. Cut it in half & glue to the cowling edge with contact cement. Looks good & hasn't come off yet. Wayne Traveler N5453U -------- Subj: Re: Gap Sealing the Prop Spinner Date: 98-03-31 20:40:03 EST From: Ben Borosdy To: Ron B. Levy CC: grumman-gang Yes Ron, Use dense, closed cell black foamed neoprene refrigeration insulating strip. Depending on the gap width of your spinner/cowling 3/8" or 1/2" thick x 3/4" wide should do. The self adhesive will not last, so use Pliobond adhesive after you have first positioned and formed the strip into a nice circular shape to conform to the spinner rim. First time users usually prefer to lave a small gap for spinner clearance. You can close the gap entirely if you want; the edge of the spinner will chew off any overhang. Just be careful that the foam circle is formed no larger than the spinner diameter so the bulk of the foam is inside the spinner. Don't get too antsy after you finish and let the glue cure for a proper adhesion. Have fun and this really helps engine cooling that the factory never properly addressed in the first place. Ben Tiger 74105 -------- Subj: Gap Sealing the Prop Spinner Date: 98-03-31 20:54:05 EST From: Eric Givens To: Ron B. Levy Ron: Have an old av. magazine that contains an article about a gent who performed all manner of speed mods to a 182 enabling it to outrun a 182 RG. One of his niftiest was the addition of a brushlike seal between cowl and spinner he claimed kept cooling air from leaking out forward thereby(stay with me now!) forcing that air over the cylinders and through the cowl as it was intended. Anyway, this material appears to be a plastic bristle 1/4 to 1/2 inch in length mounted on a backing material that adheres to the cowl with bristles facing forward. The only material even close to this stuff I've ever seen was used by a company I dealt with in my hardware business several years ago. Name escapes me. They manufactured door sweeps. The little gizmo that fastens to the inside bottom of a typical entrance door to seal out cold air, hot air, dust, insects, etc. In the manufacture of these sweeps the material was crimped in an aluminum extrusion and could not be removed for any other use. Point is, I've not seen it laying on the shelf of your typical home center in the form that our 182 guy utilized. The beauty of the aforementioned material was life. I've heard guys talk of foam tape to do the sealing job and based on my experience it would not last long. I always keep it (plastic brush seal) in mind when browsing stores in hopes I might find a useable version, nothing yet. Eric Cheetah 26733 -------- Subj: Re: Gap Sealing the Prop Spinner Date: 98-04-01 10:21:00 EST From: Bob Dillon To: Ron B. Levy Ron: The best way to seal the spinner & nose bowl is buy foam circular pipe insulation which is cut down the middle. put a piece of masking tape along the cut line, then measure from the nose bowl to the first set of screws on the spinner, mark the masking tape and cut. put house hold contact cement on both the nose bowl and foam, tuck the cut edge inside the spinner, let set a day and you are ready to go. I did mine 8 years ago and still looks good, you will pick up more air speed and better cooling. Bob Dillon Cheetah N9854U -------- Subj: gap seals Date: 98-04-03 13:28:01 EST From: William G. Stewart To: grumman-gang Gangsters- Lots of good information recently on gap seals. The spinner seal method which uses split pipe insulation is still not clear to me. What is the actual outside diameter of the insulation tube? When the split tube is glued to the flange of the nosebowl, the factory split edge is in line with the nosebowl-spinner OD, and the new cut edge brushes the spinner ID. This would aim the tube OD at the crankshaft. Am I right so far? Aileron-flap seals seem to be mostly fairings which bridge the underwing gap. Is the objective to fair - then why not add strips top and bottom? Or is it to prevent leakage flow up over the moveable surfaces? In which case, wouldn't an adhesive plastic foam strip glued to the concave wing surface ahead of, and brushing the leading edges of the ailerons and flaps work as well (and not attract unwanted attention). Any clarification geatefully accepted. Bill